September 21 - we do not dive in the morning, because we have slipped and not filled our balloons the night before. Instead of diving, we go to the nearby French diving center. There is unpleasant news for us - due to yesterday's accident, "Donator" is closed today, a French guard ship is standing next to it and do not let the divers present - so to speak - "do razborki obstajateljstv" Sergey offers to dive into "Le Ferrando" instead. In general, nothing interesting is expected here, but now - for the "tick" - will work. Alexander stays on the shore, I go with a whole bunch of "ordinary" divers. I find one rockfish, that's all interesting. The ship was badly destroyed, some of them were only added to a depth of 26 meters.
However, the next day promises to be interesting - we will dive to the 54-meter-deep "Mustang" plane. Everything would be fine if it didn't hurt my head today. Under normal circumstances, I would not dive in such circumstances, if everything is planned, but I cannot miss such an opportunity. When we arrive, we see that the stream is no joke this time. The rope unwinds to its full length and stands in the water at a 45 degree angle. Another diving boat comes up next and asks where we will dive. They don't seem to have any idea where they swam. In general, Le Ville de Grasse is about 100 meters away.
We are only two divers - me and Alexander. I got dressed first and jumped into the water to wait for Alexander. While Alexander is getting dressed, we have taken some 150 meters of the marker downstream. I clung to the side of the boat and Dmitry starts the engine to pull me to the place. But it turns out that this is not such a simple measure - after a few minutes, the arms stretch out long because long. I let Dmitry brake. Have to dress off all the equipment and climb back into the boat. We get closer to the marker and this time we jump both at the same time with the air down to go down immediately. It is difficult to get on the rope and paddle with fins in half, pulling down quickly in half. Despite approaching a depth of 50 meters, the rope is already standing horizontally. Alexander ahead, I am desperately trying to get to the anchor.
Finally, the plane itself appears. Preserved quite well, only the tail and wing tips are missing. Alexander immediately settles into the pilot's seat and shows me that I'm photographing him. Baaacc !! The camera is fogged again !!! I show a rude gesture dedicated to the camera and pin it in place. You will have to do without pictures. Let's take a good look at the plane, one small sea urchin came out of the engine. Take the scheduled ten minutes and start taking off. In general, for such a small object, the time is completely sufficient. We get up on the sloping rope, defend all the planned decompression minutes and after 35 minutes we are back in the boat. All in all - emotions are positive, unless they are damaged by a sore head, strong current and a tiny camera. I will definitely not dive today.
However, on September 23, the "real" caves are finally planned! Around 11:00 we are at the extreme western end of the Hyeres Peninsula, mooring near a cliff and the dive can begin. The depths will not be great, but we and Alexander Caves have prepared seriously - two lights, two coils, etc. we discuss all the actions in advance.
In total, there are three separate caves, the configuration of which is not much known. Sergei only says that one was at least 200 meters long and with branches. A couple of "ordinary" divers apply with us.
The first cave begins with a large, high grotto, We go inside along the sandy bottom. When we are about 50 meters from the "outside world", where the exit is still clearly visible, we find a large stone and Alexander fixes the first end of the string. I follow him and try to film something. The cave is narrowing, it is no longer possible to walk side by side. Depths are shown to be minimal - 2-8 meters. For me, this is the first serious time in a cave, if not counted together with Chistyakov in Dahab, so I am greedy. There are no specific signs of discomfort or claustrophobia at all. I would definitely not feel so comfortable in the surface caves. I remember getting out of the salt caves near Kuldiga.
When the first 50-meter reel runs out, we attach the second one and keep going. When we have covered a total of about 80 meters, we see that there is an air bubble at the top. We rise above the water and carefully inhale the air - the little thing that has accumulated here underground instead of air ?! no, you can breathe, even though the air is so strongly "sour". The lights illuminate a vault about 4-5 meters high. When our lights are awakened, dozens of bats begin to fly through it. We take some pictures and go back underwater, to the exit.
When we go out, we go to the nearby cave. It turns out to be smaller and less interesting. This time I go inside first, putting the rope. When we have covered one coil length, I send a signal to the others and I turn back. Here a little surprise awaits me - the others have beaten the mud so much that my reel turns out to be an empty formality. Visibility - about 50 cm, the lamp also does not help anything, I go outside only after the rope.
We are already going bolder inside the third cave. When we get to the place where the daylight is still shining inside, the cave breaks down. I decided to explore further on my own. I show the others a sign to wait for me here and go inside. I am now alone in the dark and underground. It would be the right time for a horror movie-worthy storyline, but nothing - everything goes like a spear. Almost or uninteresting - where is the adventure, where are the sharp feelings?
Exit to the end of the spool and turn back. After a while, the reflection of the other lights appears in front of you. We swim outside a bit more and go to the boat. We all agree - you have to buy longer spools in a hurry!
In the afternoon we go to see the nearby Toulon. We park the car in a multi-storey car park and go to the shore. The goal - to find a boat that sails along the city. When we have walked a couple of kilometers, we reach the shore. It turns out that "shore" and "port" are by no means synonymous here, and we should walk along the shore for about 4 kilometers. It seemed too much and we decided to enjoy French public transport. A comfortable bus takes us to the very heart of the city - the embankment, where three - and four-storey motor yachts are moored. Well, that's the essence of the Cote d'Azur! We quickly find a boat dock and settle on a yellow catamaran, which promises to take us all over the port area. As soon as we get ashore, the nail of the program opens to our eyes - the whole mighty French navy. In the foreground we recognize two scandalous "Mistral" class landing craft, behind which is the flagship of the French fleet - the air base ship "Sharl de Goll". Compared to American air base ships, this one looks quite modest, hardly longer than 200 meters. As far as can be understood, the guide in French is currently revealing all the military secrets of France, but we are photographing not to worry.
After the excursion by boat we visit one port shop, where I bought a couple of "interior souvenirs" - a ship bell and a sextant. The seller turns out to be a very colorful type, we chat with him a bit and take photos after a successful purchase. We also see the naval museum, which is located in a two-storey building, right at the gate of the naval base.
The next day I am already tormented by my conscience - for the time being, the actual number of lobes is significantly behind schedule, so I go to sea in the morning while Alexander is still asleep. Ours are going to Le Ville de Grasse again. In the boat Dmitry divides everyone into pairs, I, of course, alone. This time, at least, the camera doesn't disappoint, I filmed a bit, once again the whole review and as the last knee up to defend all my decompression minutes.
Alexander also wakes up to the second lobe. Let's go to "Le Grec" - the second most beautiful ship in the region after "Donator". Again, there are only two of us and Dmitry takes us in a small boat. The sea is quite raging - first we have to shake about 10 kilometers to the eastern end of the island of Porquerolle, then another 3-4 kilometers along the open sea. We see two small tornado outcrops by the piece. No other diver's boat is seen at sea today. Glad that two stationary buoys have been installed at Le Grec. The current is not too strong either. The boat is really very beautiful, stands on a straight keel, maximum depth 46 meters. The bow of the vessel is broken and not visible. We wander through the tanks, of course - everything is empty, long read. The current, however, can be felt, constantly trying to take us away from the ship. A lot of fish around. One large grouper scares away from the body. After fifteen minutes we start to get up. Here are all the advantages of stationary buoys - thick and stiff ropes help to overcome waves on the sea surface.
When we get on the boat, it turns out that the waves have risen even bigger and Dmitry suggests to bypass the island of Porquerolle on the other side, keeping the island downwind. But the wind continues to take hold - also the temperature is such that the heater must be switched on at night…
Since you can't go to sea the next day, we decide to dedicate it to surface entertainment. First we go to visit the local flea market, which is located on the site of an abandoned amusement park on the outskirts of Hyeres. The whole "andele" takes place on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Sergei has tempted us with stories that for a few euros you can buy the most unimaginable things here. I'm looking forward to some "sea souvenirs", but I don't find anything interesting. However, a wide selection of all kinds of "household souvenirs". If someone would like to decorate an interior in a retro style for cheap money - here would be the right place for him. Old irons, coffee grinders, all kinds of kitchen tools in a wide range. Nearby are old rags, used household appliances, toys, sports slippers for 5 euros, which are decorated with the inscription "Made in France", fruit… The traders themselves are even more interesting. We try to take secret photos of our faces until we start looking at us angrily. However, I do not find "makeup" - nothing "from the sea".
We buy fruit and go to visit Sergei and Pavel, who are flying away today. They are located in another campsite, a few kilometers from ours. Essential wine, cheeses and oysters on the table. We learn to eat them properly. Not everyone succeeds. When we finally say goodbye to them, our journey leads to Marseille. You have to drive about 90 kilometers, mostly on good highways, which are not free. We park in the parking lot next to the old port, in the very center. I've taken a jacket with me, which I leave in the car. A few minutes later it has to be bitterly regretted - a strong wind outside, it could be around 20 m / s. At that time it is said at sea - "at such times the bricks learn to fly" - it is not far from the truth, from time to time we leave the bouncy views upwards, whether a piece of roof or a signboard falls on us. We climb the fortress, which offers a colossal view of the city. Next we decide to get around the port to the cathedral in the distance. Along the way we find a place from where the boat leaves for Ifa Island. Unfortunately, there are currently no flights. Either because of the wind or because the season is over and the wallpaper is glued to Edmond Dante's cell.
The whole life of the city seems to have gathered around the port - there is a concert, promotions, trade - and of course - the whole bay is full of floats of different sizes. Fighting with the strong wind, we get to the cathedral, which is located by the sea. Unfortunately, we do not know anything about it, all that remains is to assess its monumentality.
On the way back there are a couple of "sea souvenir" shops, but everything is more expensive than in Toulon, some of the range is weaker. The only impression is a full diving set with a polished copper helmet, lead boots and a pump in the set. I didn't ask for the price, because I smell a five-digit number. We're sitting in another cafe and going to the parking lot. In the darkness of the evening we return to the campsite.
/ closing will follow /
